Our September visit to England continued as we departed the Peak District and set off for Barnard Castle in County Durham. On the way we made a stop at the Bronte Parsonage Museum in the village of Haworth, West Yorkshire.
The Bronte family arrived in the parsonage in 1820 and the sisters spent most of their lives there. The area inspired many of the novels written by the Bronte sisters. Today, the parsonage is a museum operated by the Bronte Society. Founded in 1893, it is one of the oldest literary societies in the world.
From Haworth we continued our drive to Barnard Castle. The town of Barnard Castle is located on the River Tees in County Durham, just north of Yorkshire. To our surprise, the town was much bigger than we anticipated. The accommodation I had booked turned out the be one of the most beautiful places we have rented over the years in our travels. The cottage was part of an old mill and was positioned right on the edge of the River Tees. The view from our veranda was breathtaking. If any reader is travelling to Yorkshire or County Durham and is looking for an amazing 1-bedroom cottage to stay in, contact me and I will provide contact information.
Another absolute treasure located on the edge of the town is the Bowes Museum. The museum was actually built for that purpose in the 19th Century by John and Josephine Bowes. The couple were collectors who built the museum to share their art with the public. Aside from a world class collection of fine art, china, silver, furnishings and other items of decorative art, the museum houses the amazing Silver Swan. Crafted out of silver, the automaton dates back to 1793. Once a day, a museum employee gives a little talk about the swan, then winds up the 3 mechanisms and the swan performs. It first preens its back then plucks a fish from the water and swallows it.
The £14.00 entry fee to the Bowes Museum is good for unlimited entry for the following year. We took advantage of this great offer to visit the museum twice during the week we stayed in Barnard Castle.
With cool, rainy weather during the week, we opted to spend some of the time just relaxing in our beautiful cottage. We did spend one day tracing some of my wife’s roots in Yorkshire. On another day we took a drive to the highest pub in the British Isles. Tan Hill Inn is located high in the North Yorkshire Dales. Dating back to the 17th century, the Inn is warm, cozy, and serves great food and ales – exactly what you want from an English Pub!
On our drive back to Barnard Castle, we stopped at Brough and nearby Brough Castle for a short visit.
About a 10 minute drive from our accommodation was Egglestone Abbey – worthy of a sunrise shoot!
And of course, I had to do a sunset shoot of the imposing
Barnard Castle itself.
After a delightful, and somewhat restful visit to Barnard Castle, we were off for the next part of our adventure – cruising canals in a narrowboat … stay tuned!
In mid-September we set off for a month in England.
Our month started with a short bus ride from Heathrow to the Reading Rail Station, followed by a train ride to Stoke-On-Trent where we picked up our rental car. Then the “fun” started – dealing with rush hour traffic while navigating our way out of the city, all the while driving on the “wrong” side of the road was a little unnerving. I had driven on the left on a previous trip to the UK but that was years ago. Anyway, once we got out of the city, driving became a little more relaxed.
After a couple hour drive into the beautiful Peak District we
arrived at our rental accommodation in Hope. It was on a sheep farm just
outside of town and was a very cozy, comfortable place to spend the next 6
I started the next day, just after sunrise, with a short
hike up into the hills behind the farm. There were plenty of photo
opportunities along the way.
Following breakfast, it was shopping day. My wife wanted to visit a yarn shop in a nearby village. Unfortunately, our GPS took us all over the countryside, including a dead-end road and several very narrow lanes. We never did find the shop that day. A few days later, after re-checking the location, we had no trouble finding the store. Anyway, after aborting our initialed attempt we went off in search of groceries to stock our rental for the coming days. We had better luck finding the grocery store!
The forecast for the next day was mostly rain, so we elected to spend the day relaxing in the cottage. During one period in the morning when it looked like it might be clear for a bit, I took a stroll down the lane into town. For my return trip I elected to take the public footpath past fields of sheep and over the railway tracks. I got back just as the rain was starting again.
Several months earlier I had arranged a one-to-one workshop with a photographer I had been following for some time on YouTube. Nigel Danson (nigeldanson.com ) is based in the Peak District. His photos of the area was one factor that made me want to spend some time in the Peak District on this trip to England.
About 6:00 am on the Monday morning, Nigel picked me up at the cottage and we were off for a day of shooting starting with sunrise at Mam Tor, a prominent hill in the region. From there we visited several other spots in the Hope Valley. It was a great day and I picked up a number of helpful tips from Nigel.
The following morning we made our return trip to Tideswell and the yarn shop we had tried to find a few days earlier. By now my wife had been in contact with the owner and arranged to visit the shop (which is normally only open on Saturdays). Not surprisingly she found some yarn to purchase. For my part I took the opportunity of our return trip to wander the town with my camera.
A visit to the neighbouring village of Castleton was first on the agenda for the following day. It’s a very picturesque little English village and I quite enjoyed an hour or so of strolling the streets.
From Castleton it was off to visit Brodsworth Hall and Gardens, about an hour away in South Yorkshire. Our visit started with a visit to the Tea Room for some scones, clotted cream and a pot of tea. That alone made the trip worthwhile! Then it was off to tour the house and the gardens. The home is a beautifully restored mid-Victorian structure and the gardens were absolutely stunning.
All too soon our visit to the Peak District came to a close and it was time to move on. Our next base would be in Barnard Castle, County Durham just north, of Yorkshire.
After a long, wet summer I was looking forward to one last Fall camping trip in Jasper National Park. Going online in early August I was lucky to secure a campsite in September for a couple of nights. With Whistlers Campground being closed for the entire season it has placed a lot of pressure on the remaining campgrounds
Arriving in late afternoon, I got my tent set up, firewood gathered, and dinner cooked before setting off to Pyramid Lake to try a sunset shoot. Unfortunately there just wasn’t any color in the sky, it was chilly, and I couldn’t find a composition I was happy with so I packed it in early and returned to camp for a nice evening relax by the campfire.
The next morning I was on the road while it was still dark, arriving at my shooting destination well before the start of Blue Hour. Once again there wasn’t a lot of color for sunrise. However, some beautiful light on Geraldine Peak just before sunrise made it all worthwhile.
I also caught the first licks of sunrise warming the peak of Mt. Edith Cavell.
As the sunlight worked its way down the slopes it made for some beautiful golden patches which created nice reflections in the water.
After breakfast I hiked the Valley of the Five Lakes Trail. I was hoping that with the overcast conditions I would get some nice filtered light and be able to capture the gorgeous green color of the lakes. I was only partially successful as, even with a polarizer, I still got a lot of bright, colorless glare on the water. But the hike itself was great and I was able to enjoy the beauty of the lakes, even if I couldn’t fully capture it with my camera.
The next morning I returned to Pyramid Lake just before Blue Hour. In the dark I scouted out a composition that I liked and then set up my camera to wait until sunrise. A little breeze came up just at sunrise which destroyed the nice reflection in the water. I caught this shot just as the sun was starting to light the peak of Pyramid Mountain.
But in my view, my best shot of the whole trip was captured before sunrise, when the lake was dead calm. With some beautiful Alpenglow lighting up Pyramid Mountain and an incredible reflection in Pyramid Lake, I was totally blown away. The resulting photo is below.
On the way back to the campground to strike camp I did catch a shot of a bull elk. It is rutting season and the elk (Wapiti) with their incredible antlers are at their finest.
As referenced above, I will close this post with my favourite shot of the whole trip.
On my drive north back to Canada, after the photo workshop in Oregon, I had the pleasure of exploring a bit of the east side of the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state. I only had a part of a day before catching a ferry that evening, but it was enough to convince me I need to return when I can spend more time!
At one of my first stops, a short hike took me to Rocky Creek Falls. The spot is quite popular and there were a fair number of people there, but I still managed to get a few shots without anyone frolicking in the water in front of me.
On the hike back, my eye caught some beautiful dappled light on some moss-covered rocks along the creek. As I was fairly close to the car, I changed into my rubber boots then returned to go wading in the creek to capture the image below.
As I continued my drive towards Port Angeles, I was captivated by this old barn. This is actually three separate images, focusing at different distances, and then stacked and merged into one image: a process aptly called focus stacking. This technique gives better focus throughout the image.
I did try shooting another waterfall west of Port Angeles but the sunlight on the water was so bright and harsh that any photo of the waterfall would be totally blown out. I opted instead to just spend a few minutes enjoying the view before returning to Port Angeles for dinner at a great little brew pub.
As I had a bit of time before catching my evening ferry to Victoria, I strolled around Port Angeles with my camera.
This little “bonus day” was a perfect add on to the Oregon workshop!
In mid-July I arrived in Crescent City, California to meet up with Tom and Jim, my fellow participants in the Gems of Oregon Workshop put on by photographer Ralph Nordstrom (ralphnordstromphotography.com/) I had previously taken a workshop led by Ralph through the Desert Institute at Joshua Tree National Park. I found him to be a wealth of knowledge as well as a very patient, attentive workshop leader.
Ralph provided an overview of the workshop and briefed us on the areas where we would be shooting over the next several days. Following Ralph’s presentation, we had a chance to share samples of our photographs with each other. It is always fun to see other photographer’s work.
An early supper was next on the agenda, following which we piled into Ralph’s car for a short drive north across the border into Oregon for our sunset shoot. When we arrived at the beach, fog dimmed our hopes for a spectacular sunset but made for some interesting initial shots.
One of the things I love about seascapes is waves crashing against rocks. The waves were rolling in nicely for some dramatic shots.
In this photo, the fog helps to provide a sense of depth to the scene.
We soon learned that our pessimism regarding a nice sunset was unfounded as the sky started to light up with some absolutely gorgeous pastel shades of pink, magenta and orange. The color reflections in the water surrounding the rocks was stunning.
As the color and light faded we packed up our gear and returned to the car. As we started to drive away, the sky lit up again with beautiful deep reds and oranges. We quickly parked, jumped out of the car, grabbed our cameras and started firing. What an incredible start to our workshop!
After breakfast the next morning, we loaded up our cars and headed up Hwy 101. At our first stop we had lots of time to explore the beach looking for a variety of compositions.
I really liked the patterns in the sand left by the receding waves. The seashell adds a little context to the shot.
The driftwood seems to lead naturally to the rocks on the shore and the sea stacks beyond.
A stream ran across the beach, leading the eye to the rocky coastline.
Our next stop was the Natural Bridges Viewpoint along the Samuel H. Boardman corridor.
A little further was Arch Rock. The straight-on view was OK but not all that inspiring. After looking around a bit I found a vantage point that gave, in my opinion, a much more interesting photo. In the photo below the rock is nicely framed by the trees.
The sun was pretty much directly overhead when we got to Battle Rock, which made finding interesting compositions difficult. I did like the way the line from the receding waves leads your eye to the hole in the rock. And in the second photo below, the wildflowers provide a nice foreground.
And, of course, there were waves crashing on the rocks!
This just reminded me of some kind of grotesque beast lounging on a log.
In operation since 1870, Cape Blanco Lighthouse is the oldest continually operating lighthouse in Oregon. Totally functional, it is also quite beautiful.
We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening in Bandon. The Coquille River Lighthouse made a nice backdrop for a couple of shots.
This Turkey Vulture was enjoying dinner on the beach.
We were treated to an absolutely stunning sunset that evening. It was literally a sunset that just kept giving … and giving … and giving …
Click on any image in the set below to open up the full-sized gallery.
After two spectacular seascape sunsets on two consecutive evenings, it was time to move inland. Here we discovered that the rivers and waterfalls of the interior of Oregon are equally as beautiful as its seascapes.
We spent the final afternoon of the workshop at Crater Lake. Formed by a volcanic eruption that caused the collapse the mountain peak, it is the deepest lake in the US. And it is perhaps the most intense and deepest shade of blue that I have seen in a lake anywhere.
With the sunlight glittering off the water, Phantom Ship looks like it is sailing in a sea of diamonds.
Wizard Island is actually a cinder cone. It is capped by a small crater named Witches Cauldron.
We capped off the day with a visit to the Pinnacles. I was caught by the back-lighting the trees and the sand blowing through the valley. The sandstorm was hazardous to us and, more importantly, our cameras, but I managed to get this shot off before we packed it in for the day.
I thoroughly enjoyed the nearly four days I spent with my workshop mates, Tom and Jim, as well as, of course, Ralph Nordstrom. Ralph runs a number of photo workshops in the American Southwest. Check them out at ralphnordstromphotography.com/workshops.
As near as I can figure, it has been 50 years since I last camped at Two Jack Lake in Banff National Park. I have been to Banff many times since, and even camped at a couple of different campgrounds when I did the Tour de Canada in 2013. But for the most part I have always “hotelled it” in Banff.
My most vivid recollection of my previous camping experience at Two Jack Lake, with a couple of High School buddies, was renting a row boat on Lake Minnewanka, just down the road. As I recall, we only rented it for an hour or two. While on the lake, and while we were at some distance from the dock, a storm blew up. I recall that it was severe enough that we weren’t sure if we would actually make it safely back to the dock. In any event, we did survive – or I wouldn’t be sharing my teenage angst with you now! But maybe I learned a little bit about perseverance and focusing on the task rather than panicking – important lessons for a 16-year-old.
So 50 years later I spent 3 nights camping at the Two Jack Lake Campground. That lent itself to 4 days of photography, but no boat rentals!
As seems to be my luck, the weather was not the most cooperative on this trip. However, I think this provided a bit of an opportunity for a step forward in my photographic journey. As a result of an online course I was working on (https://nigeldanson.teachable.com/), rather than just write the time off, I really started looking at other opportunities the lack of “perfect” shooting conditions presented. I really think that my journey took a big step forward on this trip. Not everything worked out, but that’s OK. It was the process of seeing things differently that was important. And I think, to some extent, I continued this process on a photo workshop I did in July (more about that in the next post).
So here I will share some of the good. The bad and the ugly I will keep to myself and use as building blocks for the future!
The first afternoon I spent setting up camp and doing some exploring. I didn’t find much to photograph other than some sheep eating by the roadside (and I saw them a lot over 4 days!). For the most part they still seemed to be in the process of losing their winter coats.
The next morning I was up early to try for a sunrise shot. However, with heavy overcast and rain, that wasn’t going to happen. But while I was waiting for something to happen on my intended composition, I noticed some light starting to appear off to my left. Quickly, I picked up my camera and tripod and re-positioned myself a little distance away to get this shot.
I loved how the light seemed to be lighting up the little “tree island” in the lake. The light didn’t last long so I returned to my original location. I composed my shot and waited. When it became abundantly clear that a spectacular sunrise was not going to light up the mountains, I decided to play a bit with long exposures. With very little color in the scene, when I took my photos I was envisioning them in Black and White. I think I ended up with something kind of nice. While the rocks aren’t perfectly placed (and I was not about to wade out and try re-positioning the rocks and my back!), they do lead your eye into the scene. The 13-second exposure really flattens out the water and leads to some nice reflections.
After breakfast it was off to do some more reconnoitering. I ended up at Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park in BC, west of Banff. When I first arrived it looked like the overcast conditions would be perfect for shooting the waterfall. Not only was it cloudy but the sun was not high enough to be shining directly on the falls. Direct sunlight is the enemy of shooting waterfalls. With the bright reflection off the water it basically “blows out” the falls relative to the surrounding environment. It is very difficult to get a nice shot of waterfalls in direct sunlight. “Crappy light” is so much better. Anyway, by the time I hiked the short distance into the falls the light was changing rapidly. I did manage to get a 5-shot vertical pano in before the sun became a blazing ball of fire directly overhead. It’s not the greatest shot but was the best I was going to get for several hours at any rate.
I went to bed early that night in anticipation of trying a sunrise shot at Moraine Lake the next morning. The forecast didn’t look promising but it would still be worth the hour’s drive in the morning to at least check out a site that I had never been to before. As it turned out, the rain and heavy overcast did not produce any decent images, but at least I now knew the “lay of the land”. I would try again the next morning.
On the way back from camp I started to think about how I could look at things differently. One of the take-aways from the course I was working on was that if there wasn’t a “big” landscape to shoot, start isolating and looking for little scenes. As I was driving past Two Jack Lake I noticed some interesting meadows in the mountains across the lake peeking through the cloud and fog. I pulled over and with my 400mm lens started trying out several compositions. I ended up with this shot which I quite like.
The next morning it was up again at 3:00 am for the hour-long drive to Moraine Lake. This time I was greeted with heavy fog and cloud. Still, I set up for a possible sunrise shot. As Blue Hour progressed, the fog started to lift revealing parts of the lake. This was my favourite of the fog shots.
I continued to wait past sunrise. It was much too cloudy to get the sun lighting up the peaks across the lake. However, as the sun got higher it did burn off enough cloud to get this shot. Where I was positioned it is a very steep drop-off to the lake. If it was any steeper it would be considered a cliff. As it was, I thought the rocks beneath my feet provided a nice frame for the shot.
And with that it was time to return to camp, pack up and head for home. While maybe I didn’t get the “iconic” shot to hang on the wall, I feel that in some way I grew as a photographer on this trip. So in that respect it was a very successful outing. Sometimes waiting 50 years is worth it! Different times and different lessons but still an important experience.
Towards the end of May I spent 3 nights camping in Jasper National Park. Naturally my prime reason for the visit was to do some photography.
The first morning I got a couple of different views of Geraldine Peak. The first is from Leach Lake at sunrise and I managed to include the moon. There was even a little layer of fog on the water although it is hard to discern in the photo. The second was from along the Whirlpool River a bit later in the morning.
While at Leach Lake that morning I got a shot of the sun just lighting up the tops of the mountains across the lake.
In early evening I hiked in to the 5th Lake in the Valley of the Five Lakes. I got a few shots before the mosquitoes and some rain moving in convinced me I wasn’t going to wait around for sunset.
The following day I caught some nice reflections in Annette Lake.
Over the several days I was there, I also caught a few wildlife shots.
A few weeks later, I was in Jasper again. This trip was primarily for the Jasper Fondo Weekend which is a cycling event. I opted for the 100 km ride. The first part of the ride was a bit of a struggle for me with a 14 km climb up Marmot Mountain. The rest of the ride was pretty nice though.
I stayed a couple of nights after the ride and did an evening and sunrise shoot at Horseshoe Lake, a new location for me.
There’s always something new to explore in Jasper National Park!
At the end of April I spent a couple of nights in Banff, hoping to get some good opportunities for photography. Unfortunately it was snowing much of the time and the sky was mainly a dull gray – not great conditions for capturing landscapes. As I haven’t spent a lot of time in recent years exploring around Banff, it did at least give me the opportunity to scout out some locations for a return trip. And I did get a few photos.
I tried shooting at Vermilion Lakes several times and really only got one decent shot on one chilly morning. The temperature was below freezing when I got there about an hour before sunrise. As it turned out, sunrise wasn’t all that spectacular but I did get the shot below, which was about as good as it got. You can even see the thin layer of ice on the water around the grasses.
The second shot is of Castle Mountain. I kind of liked the patch of light on the grass.
The third and final shot is of Two Jack Lake. As you can see it was fairly heavy overcast with snow and ice still on the lake. There wasn’t a lot of color overall so it seemed like a good candidate for Black & White.
Barstow marks the boundary between the “sparsely populated” and “heavily populated” sections of Route 66 in California. And it marks a visible shift from businesses that are just hanging on (or have long gone) to businesses that capitalize and thrive because of their association with Route 66. There are, no doubt, numerous reasons for this. I’m sure that, with a larger population base, many of these businesses would survive even without Route 66. However, I suspect that tying their business to Route 66 also attracts the tourist trade. And some of these businesses have been around since the heyday of The Mother Road.
A few blocks off of Route 66 in Barstow is the Barstow Harvey House. Built in 1911, it was originally a Harvey House Hotel and train station. It now houses various offices, train station, train museum, and a Route 66 museum. I toured the latter museum and it is well worth the visit.
As always, click on a photo in the galleries to open a larger version.
If you are looking for a vintage motel experience, the Route 66 Motel offers accommodation in renovated rooms that still retain the feel of a 50’s motel. My room was plain but very clean and comfortable.
A new restaurant is Roy’s Cafe – inspired by the original in Amboy. While the building is owned by the same fellow that owns Amboy, the cafe itself is operated independently. It’s an interesting mix of a burger joint and Mexican restaurant. It also serves breakfast. I tried it both for dinner and breakfast and would definitely go again if I am in Barstow in the future.
As you drive through Barstow, there is lots of evidence of its connection to Route 66 – from murals to old buildings and new businesses.
A little west of Barstow, near Oro Grande, is The Bottle Tree Ranch. It is a unique “forest” of old bottles. Entry is free however they do accept donations.
Another rather interesting place was just a bit further down the road from The Bottle Tree Ranch. While I was stopped and taking a few shots of the obviously closed Iron Hog Restaurant & Saloon, a fellow came out from inside and we started chatting. He said the place was being renovated after a fire and asked if I wanted a tour of the inside. I said “sure” and he showed me around. The actual bar was quite old and seemed like the perfect spot to belly up for a beer. The fire damage was most predominant in the kitchen area and this is where the renos were being concentrated. Their hope was to open at least part of the business as soon as they could. I haven’t been able to confirm online if they have in fact reopened yet, but maybe next time through I will stop by and check it out.
The claim to fame of the Iron Hog , other than its long history, is that parts of some movies had been shot there, including Easy Rider and Erin Brockovich.
In the town of Oro Grande itself are some interesting little antique and craft shops along with a pizza restaurant.
Perhaps one of the better known and oldest eating establishments along this section of Route 66 is Emma Jeans Holland Burger Cafe, just on the outskirts of Victorville. Originally called the Holland Burger Cafe, it has been serving meals since 1947. In 1979 Richard Gentry bought the cafe for his wife and renamed it after her. Richard and Emma Jean have since passed away but the cafe is still in the family, operated by their son and his wife. The food is reputed to be fantastic, however as it was too early for lunch I opted for one of their famous shakes.
The city of Victorville has a great Route 66 Museum. In the museum is the neon sign from another Route 66 motel, The Green Spot Motel. The motel itself, minus the green neon sign, is a few blocks from the museum.
From Victorville to San Bernardino parts of Route 66 get swallowed up by the I-5. A good guide book helps to navigate one’s way along the freeway and eventually back onto The Mother Road.
A few blocks off of Route 66 is the San Bernardino train station. The building’s architecture makes it a “must see” if you are in the area.
By now I needed a good night’s rest, so it was off to the Wigwam Motel to get a feel for Route 66 in its heyday. The San Bernardino location is one of the remaining three of the original seven motels. This one was built in 1949 and has been thoroughly restored since the current owners purchased it in 2003. The teepee-shaped rooms are definitely unique.
As you continue your way along Route 66 a good guide book is almost essential for directions. Along the way there are plenty of references to the historic highway.
There are a number of great dining spots along the way. At the Donut Man in Glendora, be prepared for long lines. Their Strawberry Donuts (a seasonal specialty) can only be described as a bit of heaven on earth! They are huge and one is a meal by itself! A great spot for breakfast is LeRoy’s in Monrovia. And if a donut and breakfast doesn’t fill you up, stop in at the Fair Oaks Pharmacy in South Pasadena for a burger or a sundae! The Pharmacy has been around since 1915. If only those walls could talk!
For a little detour off of Route 66, one can easily spend a few hours or all day at Huntington Gardens. It’s a perfect way to walk off breakfast at LeRoy’s before you go for a burger at Fair Oaks Pharmacy! The gardens are absolutely beautiful!
Route 66 has had three terminations over the years due to different alignments. The last termination was at Santa Monica Pier and this is what folks now generally consider the end of Route 66. As it was getting on in the afternoon when I left Fair Oaks Pharmacy, I opted to drive by the quickest route to the pier rather than trying to navigate, using my guidebooks, the streets of LA. One day perhaps I will return to seek out the first two endings for the historic highway.
As it was, it was a good thing that I left myself lots of time as, on the first pass, I missed the driveway to my hotel which was only a couple of blocks from the pier. With a lot of traffic in the area at that time of day, it literally took me about an hour to drive around the block. Believe me I didn’t miss the hotel entrance the second time! I didn’t have a lot of time after checking in to get settled in my room then get down to the beach for a sunset shot of the pier.
The next morning I took some sunrise shots of Santa Monica Pier then spent a bit of time on the pier itself.
To finish off my journey, I spent about half an hour standing near the sign marking the end of Route 66. Just for fun, I took a photo of everyone taking group photos or selfies at the sign. It is quite amazing how many photos are taken in a relatively short time. To end off this post, here is a collage of some of the shots I took.
I don’t know why I have this “thing” for Route 66. As a Canadian, my interest may seem a bit odd. After all, it is a US highway and a decommissioned one at that. And much of it doesn’t even exist anymore! But the more I have traveled along parts of it, I have discovered that people from all over the world seem to have some kind of attraction to “the Mother Road”. Maybe its just a bit of nostalgia that lives in all of us
I think I first became consciously aware that Route 66 was something real, and not just something of fiction, a number of years ago while sitting in a pub in St. Louis. Noticing the “Historic Route 66” signs around, I think it sunk in that there really was a Route 66 and it had passed through St. Louis. Several years later, I remember standing on the steps of the Chicago Art Institute, looking across Michigan Ave. at the corner of Adams Street and thinking “here is where Route 66 starts”!
What opened my eyes to the photographic possibilities of the highway was a one-day workshop I took in March of 2018 from Canadian photographer Sandi Wheaton who has her own connection to “Mainstreet of America”. Check out her story at pictureroute66.com On this particular workshop we shot scenes in Oatman, AZ, Needles and Amboy, CA. That planted the seed that maybe this could become a project to work on over time. I’m still not certain of the theme of my project but one thing that strikes me is how some places have thrived and others have died. Much of this may be related to various realignments of the highway over time, but other factors may include the ebb and rise in tourist interest in Route 66.
This past winter, I made several day trips and one 4-day trip to photograph scenes along Route 66 from Needles to its termination at the Santa Monica Pier. Perhaps in future years I will continue my journey eastward through other states. In this series of posts, however, I will chronicle my journey along Route 66 in California.
Needles, CA sits where Route 66 crosses the Colorado River from Arizona. There is plenty of evidence of the ties between the city and the highway including a mural that depicts a Route 66 sign, Snoopy, Charlie Brown and Spike (Snoopy’s older brother who allegedly lives in the desert near Needles). Charles Schulz spent part of his childhood in Needles.
As always, click on a photo in the galleries to open a larger version.
Leaving Needles, a short jaunt north on I95 will reconnect you with Route 66. Traveling west, you will soon come to the town of Goffs. There are many deserted buildings in the town, but there is also what looks like a very interesting museum in the old schoolhouse. Unfortunately it was closed the day I was there, but it is likely worth a return visit at some point. When I40 replaced much of Route 66 in California it spelled the demise of many small towns. Goffs is one of many such casualties.
A little further down the road, just before Route 66 crosses I40, is Fenner, which now isn’t much more than a gas station and convenience store.
Crossing I40 and continuing on a few miles brings you to Essex, and the end of the road for this segment of Route 66. Heavy rains several years ago washed out some bridges, closing a segment of the Mother Road.
To rejoin Route 66 it is necessary to return to I40 and travel west as far as Kelbaker Road. Travelling south on Kelbaker Road brings you back to Route 66. The highway to the left of the intersection is barricaded and indicates “road closed”. However, if you drive around the barricade you can backtrack on Route 66 as far as Chambless. Along the way is the Roadrunner’s Retreat Restaurant, long closed. There isn’t much in Chambless other than an old abandoned motel and what may have been a store. With I40 bypassing this whole area it is pretty easy to see why businesses have failed.
Resuming the trek westward soon brings you to Amboy, home of Roy’s Cafe, one of the better known and often photographed stops along Route 66. In 2005 the town was sold to the owner of the Juan Pollo restaurant chain who has put some money into renovating some of the buildings, including the cafe which is now more of a snack bar. Over time it will be interesting to see what further improvements are made.
As you continue west from Amboy you pass a black cinder cone, Amboy Crater, the remains of an extinct volcano.
A number of communities, such as Bagdad, that did exist at one time on the next section of road have completely disappeared. The next town that still exists is Ludlow.
As is normal for many of the towns along this part of Route 66, Ludlow has its share of old abandoned buildings, again a casualty of I40 which passes, within sight, just a short distance to the north.
Based on reviews I had read online, I stopped for breakfast at the Ludlow Cafe. With friendly service and good food, it was well worth the visit.
The next town on the trek west is Newberry Springs. The best know attraction in this community would, of course, be the Bagdad Cafe. The cafe became the set of a German-made movie by the same name, filmed in 1987. One well-known actor in the movie was Jack Palance. His character lived in an airstream trailer on the lot. The movie is about a German woman who gets stranded in the desert and walks into the cafe. Over time, while renting a room in the adjacent motel, she befriends the quirky characters associated with the cafe and motel. The movie is actually quite good and has almost a cult following – many Europeans visit the cafe every year because of the movie. The motel is gone (except for the sign) and the trailer is a shell but the coffee in the cafe was good.
A little further down the road, “downtown” Newberry Springs consists of a bar and a market.
The last town, before hitting Barstow, is Daggett. The town seemed to have a little more population than any community I had passed through since Needles. The little convenience store seemed to have a steady stream of customers. Across the street are two boarded up and fenced off buildings (an old general store and hotel) giving evidence, that this community like so many others along Route 66, is struggling to survive.
In Part Two I will continue my journey in Barstow. But I will leave you with this nod to by-gone days.