Chile Part 4

From Santiago, our journey took us to Santa Cruz, Chile for a two-night stay.  Enroute we stopped at Viu Manent winery.

A special treat at this winery was a tour of the vineyard in horse-drawn carriages followed by a tasting of their fine wines.  Our visit wrapped up with lunch.

Our lodgings were at the Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza, a beautiful old hotel in the heart of the city.  A stained-glass skylight adorned the elevator shaft and a further stained-glass dome covered the restaurant area.  The hotel was across the street from a park and next door to the Colchagua Museum, both of which I visited during our stay.

Without question, the “party” winery of our trip was Viña Echeverría.  Presided over by Roberto Echeverría, Sr., it is truly a family operation.  Everything was done to make us feel welcome, right down to flying the Canadian flag at the entrance to the property.  As we got off the bus we were met by a welcoming party led by Roberto Sr. (Poppa).  Our visit began with a presentation on making sparkling wine (presented by Poppa) along with, of course, a sample.  Roberto Sr. now specializes in sparkling wines while Roberto Jr. is the chief winemaker for the balance of their wines.

Following the presentation, we went on a tour of the winery before making our way to a garden area where we tasted the many wines the family makes.  An incredible barbeque dinner in the garden followed in which the food just kept coming.  Post-dinner we enjoyed a trivia contest at which pretty well everyone won some kind of prize.  The evening was topped off with drinks on the terrace of the old family home.  Roberto Jr. demonstrated his skill at opening wine bottles with a sword!  The party would have gone on all night but for the fact we had a fairly lengthy bus ride back to Santa Cruz.

The following morning we checked out of our hotel for our return journey to Santiago, with a stop at Viña La Rosa in the Cachapoal Valley.  The gardens surrounding the buildings were gorgeous and of course featured countless rose bushes.

Our visit started with a tasting and a presentation on the effect of terroir on wine.  Following the presentation we were taken for a tour of the Cornellana vineyards with, of course, a tasting of Cornellana wines among the vines.

After enjoying the wine and a stroll around the vineyard, we returned to the main property at Vina La Rosa for lunch on the lawn.  Not only were we enjoying some incredible wines on our tour of Chile but we were being extremely well fed!  Lunch was absolutely delicious.

The following day was our final day in Chile.  Early in the morning we boarded our bus for a trip to the seaside cities of Viña del Mar and Valparaiso.  Viña del Mar featured some beautiful beaches and was obviously a tourist mecca.

Statue in Vina del Mar

Tall ship passing


Flower clock

In Valparaiso we took a short walking tour through one of the neighbourhoods before taking an old funicular down to the main square.  The square, in front of an old naval building, featured a beautiful statue honouring a naval battle of 1879.

We returned to Santiago in time for a final dinner to say farewell to Chile.  In the morning we would fly to Mendoza, Argentina.

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Chile Part 3

Our Opimian Wine Tour in Chile continued, the next day, with a cooking class in the morning followed by tastings with two different wineries.

The cooking class actually commenced at the market where we met our chef and followed her around as she purchased supplies for our class.

Back at the kitchen, and of course in need of refreshment, the first order of business was making Pisco Sours … a drink that by now we had quite come to like.  Then, while being fed appetizers and sipping wine, we participated in making empanadas and ceviche. Our morning finished off with lunch where we got to consume the fruits of our morning’s labor.  This was my first time trying ceviche and it was actually pretty good.  And while the empanadas may not have been as nicely formed as a local would have made, they tasted pretty good.

20180220-056A5485In the afternoon it was off to the Maipo Valley to visit Antiyal.  The winery, owned by Alvaro and Marina Espinoza, grows grapes biodynamically.  While you might describe it as “organic growing on steroids”, it ensures that the land is kept in a good state for future generations.  And while the methodology might seem a bit “out there” there is no denying Alvaro’s passion for wine and biodynamics.  And the “proof is in the pudding (or wine)” as he produces some amazing wines.  Following a tour of the vineyard and winery, as Alvaro described his methodology, we finished up with a wine tasting, accompanied by incredible appetizers, under the shade of a grove of trees.

We had a chance to have a bit of a snooze on the bus as we returned to our hotel in Santiago and another wine tasting that evening.  The winery of one of the new suppliers to Opimian was too far from Santiago for us to travel to on our tour, so they brought the tasting to our hotel.  Representatives from Las Veletas did a presentation on their winery in the Maule Valley.  More great wines from a great addition to the Opimian family!

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Chile Part 2

Nestled at the foot of the Andes Mountains, Santiago is truly a beautiful city.  A guided tour of the city provided the official start to our wine-tasting journey in Chile and Argentina.

The following morning it was off to the Nadalié Cooperage where owner Thierry Villard welcomed us at the gate.  The cooperage, run by his son Sebastien, gave us a rare opportunity to see how wine barrels are made.  Our tour started with a tasting that demonstrated the effect of different types of oak and varying amounts of toasting of the barrels.  This was followed by a tour of the production plant itself.  We saw how the staves were initially assembled then steamed to shape them into a barrel.  The barrel is then toasted to the specifications of the particular winery purchasing the barrel.  Finally the top and bottom are fitted and a bung hole drilled.


The tasting

From the Cooperage we traveled to the Casablanca Valley and Villard Fine Wines.  Thierry drove separately and beat us to the winery, meeting us to drink sparkling wine under the shade of a group of trees as he told us about growing grapes.  Then it was on to a large patio at the winery where we were served a very fine lunch accompanied by a selection of Villard wines.  The lunch was wonderful, the wines delicious, and the view from the patio was incredible.

Following lunch we had a tour of the winery.

All too soon it was back on the bus for the return trip to Santiago.  That evening we had a sampling of Chilean folklore at the Bali Hai Restaurant.  The restaurant definitely caters to the tourist crowd.  While the meal was decent and the dancing, for the most part, entertaining, the show did stoop to being a bit too “Las Vegas glitzy” for my tastes.


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Catching up & Chile Part 1

Wow!  Where has the time gone!  The past 6 months seem to have been a whirlwind of activity, none of which included updating my blog.

During that time I have been on a wine tour in South America, a photo tour of Monument Valley, travelling up the Oregon Coast, camping a couple of times in Jasper, and backpacking in David Thompson country.  Over the next few weeks I hope to get caught up on my blog posts for these many adventures!

The first of these adventures, as mentioned above, was a wine tour to Chile and Argentina.  The trip was organized through a wine club that we belong to, The Opimian Society, led by Janine and Daryl Koroluk, Area Representatives for the Saskatoon Chapter.

We arrived in Santiago, Chile a couple of days prior to the official start of the tour.  Our hotel was located in a beautiful area of the city, close to restaurants, museums and parks.  We even found a street full of yarn shops for my wife!


Mural across from hotel


Restaurant patio


Rental bicycles


Street performers


View from roof of hotel


View from roof of hotel


Looking down the block towards hotel


Street scene


Street scene


Plaza de Armas





One of the sites I really enjoyed was the Museum of Fine Arts, a short walk from the hotel at the end of a beautiful park.


Museum of Fine Arts


Museum of Fine Arts


Museum of Fine Arts


Museum of Fine Arts

By the end of our second day, most of the rest of our group had arrived.  We were about to set off on a week and a half of wine tasting and touring Chile.  More about that in my next post.

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Yosemite NP November 2017

Now that we are a few days into 2018, I should finish off 2017 with a posting about a trip to Yosemite National Park in November.  Along with a band of photographer friends from my camera club, we enjoyed the Fall colors in this iconic National Park.  With largely overcast skies over the time we were there, a lot of my shots focused more on water, fall colors and reflections rather than the big landscapes.  So without further ado, here is a potpourri of photos from our trip.


On our way home, we stopped briefly at Red Rock Canyon State Park and the Trona Pinnacles.

Red Rock Canyon State Park

Old Juniper at Red Rock Canyon State Park

Trona Pinnacles

Trona Pinnacles at Sunset

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Final Week in France

Bridges, castles and gardens filled our final few days in France.

On our last morning in Lacoste we were up at sunrise getting packed and having breakfast.  Finn and Aristide helped us carry our bags out to the car and we were soon on our way.

As our route north would take us through Avignon, I had planned on visiting Pont d’Avignon.  Yes, the same one as in the song.  We had about an hour’s drive then found a parking garage near the bridge.  A short walk and we were “sur la pont” – although not dancing!  The bridge only stretches part way across the river.  After being damaged too many times by the river they just quit rebuilding the missing part.

Pont d’Avignon

Our tram

Tourist stuff

After touring the bridge we walked back up into town along streets lined with, surprisingly, touristy shops!  In the Place du Palais, in front of the palaces of the Popes we enjoyed a mid-morning latte before catching a little tram for a tour of Avignon.  The tour was pretty good although the bumpy cobblestone streets made it difficult to get many good photos along the way.

After lunch back at the Place du Palais we set off for Pont du Gard.  Built by the Romans in the 1st century, the bridge is actually part of a 50 km aqueduct that carried water from Uzès to Nîmes.  It really was an amazing feat of engineering.  From one end of the bridge to the other the aqueduct only drops an inch in elevation – enough to keep the water flowing.  The water was carried to the homes, fountains and baths in Nîmes.  The ancient Romans apparently loved their baths!

Pont du Gard

Pont du Gard

From the Pont du Gard we carried on to Montagny-les-Beaune where we stayed overnight in a beautiful country inn.  Dinner next door was absolutely amazing.

Hotel le Clos

Hotel Le Clos

The next day we drove to Vernon on a route that skirted around Paris.  I expected traffic to be much worse than it was when we were close to Paris so overall the drive wasn’t too bad.  Vernon is in the Normandy region, about 4 km from Giverny where Monet’s House and Garden are located.  The hotel was fairly basic but was comfortable and clean and the location was good.

The underground parking at the hotel was another story entirely.  The narrow one-lane ramp had a right angle bend near the bottom.  The garage itself was quite cramped and stalls were fairly tight to get in and out of.  Going down the ramp wasn’t too bad.  Going up the ramp, on the other hand, was the ultimate test of driving skill in a standard-transmission car.  You pushed a button at the bottom to open the overhead door at the top.  The ramp itself had a fairly smooth surface which didn’t offer great traction.  It took a very delicate balance and coordination between brake, clutch and accelerator to get up the ramp.  First you had to navigate the narrow right-angle bend, then hope that your tires didn’t start spinning on the ramp as you made your way to the top, all the while praying that the overhead door wasn’t going to come down.  Too much gas and you were spinning, too little gas and you stalled.  We persisted for two nights before discovering that the open air parking lot across the street offered free parking from 6:00 pm to 9:00 am.  I decided for our last two nights to save the 7.5 euros/day we were paying for the underground parking – and save immeasurable wear and tear on my nerves – and park across the street for free!


But I digress.  The next day we toured Monet’s House and Gardens.  Even though the flowers would probably be better in the summer, the gardens were every bit as beautiful as I had anticipated.  It truly was amazing to see the inspiration for so many beautiful paintings!

After visiting the gardens we drove around the surrounding countryside somewhat aimlessly, just enjoying the views.  In one village, while crossing a bridge, I saw a scene I had to stop and photograph.  While shooting the pond from the bridge I realized that the house at the far end of the pond was actually an old mill.  It also looked like there might be a vantage point around the side that I could get to.  Grabbing my tripod and camera bag from the car I set off around to a little open area that gave me one of the most beautiful little scenes I had come across in France.

Mill pond

Our destination the following day was Rouen.  In the square in front of the beautiful Rouen Cathedral we found another little tram that would take us on a tour of the city.  We discovered that the car park where we had left our vehicle was right near the spot where Joan d’Arc was burned at the stake.  Rouen itself is quite a beautiful city with lots of timber-frame buildings.

Our next day was a day for chateaus.  Chateau Bizy is located on the edge of Vernon, a short drive from our hotel.  The grounds surrounding the chateau are full of beautiful sculptures, fountains and little streams.  Unfortunately, corrosion of pipes over the years has left many of the water features dry.  Apparently they are working on replacing a lot of the pipes and if the project is ever finished the water features will be incredible.  The chateau itself is well worth a guided tour.  It was quite interesting to learn about the ownership of the chateau over the years as well as to see how different wings, built at different times, were constructed to match other parts of the building.

Less than a 30 minute drive brought us to la Roche-Guyond.  The village itself is quite picturesque and it is home to a very impressive looking Chateau de la Roche-Guyond.  We had an incredible lunch at a little creperie in the village then I was off to explore the castle.  While an admission is charged, it is a self-guided tour so you can explore and spend as much time as you like.  For those willing to climb the 1000 or so stairs through an underground tunnel to the tower atop the hill, the view is magnificent!  The chateau dates back to the middle ages and during WWII was occupied by Rommel.  During the war a number of caverns in the castle were converted to munitions bunkers.  The chateau overlooks a large public garden and the Seine River beyond.

A stroll around town …

The next morning we checked out of the hotel for the drive back to the train station in Rouen where we dropped off our rental car.  The train took us back into Paris where we caught a taxi to our airport hotel.  The following day we flew home.

Our month in France flew by all too quickly.  The country is truly beautiful and the people we met were wonderful. We felt very fortunate to have been able to visit for a month.

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Chateau Vignelaure

Morning Sun

The highlight of our last full day in Provence was a tour of the last winery that I had arranged a tour of with the assistance of the Opimian Society.  This came after a tour of a different Chateau.  And the day was capped off by a visit with James Dean and the Marquis de Sade … well, sort of …

Daybreak provide a beautiful golden glow in the valley as we prepared for the day ahead.

Our first stop was the Chateau de Lourmarin.  We had briefly toured the grounds a few days earlier but returned to tour the Chateau itself.  Said to be the first chateau built in the Renaissance style in Provence, it was built in several stages over many years.  The main wing of the chateau, including the tower, are open for a self-guided tour.  The chateau itself had fallen into complete disrepair by the 1920’s but was saved from being auctioned off to haul the stone away  to other locations. by Robert Laurent-Vibert.  His extensive, and expensive, restoration is well worth the visit.

Following lunch in the village of Lourmarin we continued our journey south to the Aix-en-Provence region and Chateau Vignelaure.



Sitting on 60 hectares, the winery was certainly the largest one that we visited on this trip.  General Manager and Winemaker Phillipe Bru met us and took us on a tour of this magnificent property.  We arrived on the last day of their harvest so we started our tour where the grapes were being unloaded.  From there we continued into the winery itself to see the large stainless steel vats where the wine is made and starts its aging.  From there it is aged in French Oak barrels.  Their barrel room was quite impressive by its size.

Philippe Bru

One wonderful feature of Ch. Vignelaure is its art collection, which does seem to be a natural companion to fine wine.  In the art gallery I was particularly excited to see a couple of original, signed, Henri Cartier Bresson-Bresson prints.  In addition to the art gallery and the art on display in several rooms in the winery, the surrounding grounds contained a number of sculptures as well.  All of which adds to the absolute beauty of this Chateau.

Chateau de Vignelaure

We finished off our visit with, naturally, a tasting of some of their very fine wines.  After tasting the 2010, 2006 and 2004 Chateau Vignelaure, I can’t wait to taste the 2009 which I have had aging in my basement for several years!

Our thanks to Phillipe Bru for making time in a very busy schedule to take us on a tour of this amazing place.

During our trip to France we have visited five different wineries, staying at one of them.  The wineries varied in size, their approach to harvesting grapes, and to making wine, but the one thing that the people we met at each winery all shared was a passion for what they do.  We often don’t think about how the wine came into being when we pop the cork.  Visiting wineries gives you a whole different perspective.  Dealing with elements beyond their control (i.e. weather), choosing the ideal time to harvest (picking too early or too late can have serious consequences on the quality of the wine that year), each winemaker has to apply his or her skill and expertise to produce a wine that we will end up enjoying.

By late afternoon we were back in Lacoste where a couple more surprises awaited.

Shortly after arriving back at the apartment I heard Finn calling down to me to grab my camera and we would go for a drive the see the James Dean Wall and a couple of other things.

The Final Curtain

Created by Japanese sculptor Yasuo Mizui, the monument to the actor James Dean was sculpted out of blocks of stone so that it could be dismantled and moved to the USA.  A dispute with the owners of the land where it was to be relocated resulted in the sculpture remaining in France.  One side of the sculpture depicts stage curtains closing and is called “The Final Curtain”.  The other side incorporates a bust of James Dean and is called the “Wall of Hope”.  It is a beautiful piece that seems destined to remain in the woods near Lacoste where you can pretty much only find it with the help of a local.

Finn studying the Wall of Hope

“James Dean” aka Finn in a Mini

Marquis de Sade

The next stop was the Chateau de Lacoste where Finn provided some information about the building, now owned by Pierre Cardin who has done extensive renovations.  A sculpture depicts a bust of the Marquis de Sade, who spent many years in prison where he did much of his writing, surrounded by iron bars but open on the top.  The bars represent prison but the open top reflects that they could imprison his body but not his mind.  Upon being asked about the sculpture by a passer-by, Finn launched into an impromptu and very interesting tutorial on the life of the Marquis de Sade.

Finn the Storyteller

Our last stop was a viewing of the house where Aristide has been squatting for years.  I opted not to photograph the premises, preferring to have his face in the photographs I took of him tell his story rather than photos of the conditions, mostly self-imposed, under which he lives.

Finn’s tour was a perfect wrap-up of our week in Lacoste and the surrounding area known as the Luberon.  It is a village and a region that I will long remember for its beauty and for the interesting individuals I met.

Evening view towards Bonnieux

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Menerbes, Lavender and Gordes

Our next couple of days in Lacoste were fairly relaxed with visiting some neighbouring villages and a lavender museum; visiting a bit more with our host Finn; and meeting, visiting with, and photographing a very unique local individual.

Lacoste early morning

Roses in Lacoste

Fall Colours


View towards the market

Tuesdays in Lacoste is market day.  The market is very small with only a few tables.  After buying some tomatoes we continued to climb up towards the Chateau.  While checking out the SCAD store where they sell items that students have made, Finn caught up with us and offered to show us one of the private gardens in town that he looks after.  Naturally we jumped at the offer. Finn originally designed the gardens for the previous owner, an author and playwright. They were absolutely beautiful with an amazing view out over the valley and, upwards to the Chateau.

After leaving Finn we continued up the hill to the Chateau.

Heading back down the hill, I picked up our car, drove back up to the Chateau to pick up Susan, and it was off to Menerbes  to explore and have lunch.

That evening we enjoyed another local event … the Pizza Truck. Actually a trailer, the mobile pizza maker comes to town every Tuesday evening. I am happy to report that the pizza was excellent!

Mobile Pizza Restaurant

The next morning, while enjoying a coffee on the terrace after taking some early morning photos, Finn called down to me “Grab your camera and come meet Aristide”.

We had seen Aristide around the village a few times over the past few days and he certainly seemed harmless enough. Most people, and we were no exception, would form certain generalizations, based on first impressions, about Aristide. Some would be true, some would be completely false. Finn had formed a special bond with Aristide, in part due to Finn having shared similar kinds of experiences at various times in his life. Most mornings he makes coffee for Aristide and in general looks out for him.

Aristide turned out to be a fascinating and very likeable fellow. I quickly discovered that he loves having his photo taken. An alcoholic, he truly lives day to day. He asks nothing of anybody and takes no government assistance. What little money he lives on he earns by doing odd jobs for people around town. He has squatted for 14 years in a house left vacant due to legal wrangling in an inheritance dispute. Finn told me that he has never seen Aristide have a down day, even on days he is hungry with no food or no money. He is a free spirit who lives a life of his choosing and, as I mentioned earlier, asks for no handouts from anyone.

I also discovered that he has quite a sense of humour, at one point he and Finn launched into a verse of one of his favourite songs, “Money, Money, Money” from Mama Mia. “Money is good” he said with a grin, then burst out laughing. Finn told me that Aristide has been in a couple of short films Finn has made. In one of them Aristide plays the part of a famous tree surgeon from Montreal who assists with a heart transplant in a table … yes, a table. I have seen the “patient” and it is “alive” and doing well in Finn’s house with its new heart. Finn later sent me a link to the video and it is quite hilarious.  If you are interested in watching it, the link is Heart Transplant




Aristide is truly one of the most interesting and complex individuals I have met. There is a lot about his life he has told Finn, there is a lot that he has not divulged. While his eyes twinkle, his face tells the story of a very hard life.

Later that morning we toured a nearby Musée de la Lavande where we learned about growing, harvesting and distilling lavender into an essential oil. When you learn how many kilograms of lavender it takes to distill one litre of oil it gives a better understanding as to why the oil is so expensive.

After our visit to the museum we drove to Gordes to explore the village and to have lunch. Built on a hillside it is yet another beautiful medieval French village.

In the afternoon we continued on to Apt where we enjoyed a coffee at a very good coffee house/street cafe before doing a bit of grocery shopping.

On the way back to Lacoste we stopped at Pont Julien. Built by the ancient Romans around 300 BC, it was in the main road from Rome through France. Aside from the three main arches it also has two smaller openings designed to reduce the risk of damage from floods. Obviously the design and construction worked well for 2000 years as the bridge was in use until 2005 when it was replaced by a newer bridge!

Pont Julien

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Bonnieux, Lourmarin, and Vaugines

On the Monday of our week in Provence we set off to explore Bonnieux, the village we had been looking across at all weekend, along with Lourmarin and Vaugines.

Bonnieux was a short 6 km drive through the valley and up the hill. The village itself is spread out down the hillside. We parked the car and spent a bit of time strolling along the streets checking out the sights. (Click any photo to open Gallery)

Road to Lourmarin

Then it was back in the car and off to Lourmarin. The first part of the drive was down windy mountain roads before emerging onto a wide open plain. Probably the most prominent features of Lourmarin, which is often called one of the prettiest villages in France, is the Chateau de Lourmarin. Our visit started here with a walk around the grounds to find a statue that Finn had told us about.

After checking out the grounds (we returned later in the week to tour the Chateau) we walked into town to check it out. We found a nice little cafe in a square for lunch. There were lots of people strolling through the square so we were able to people-watch as we ate lunch.

(Click any photo to open Gallery)

Our final stop was Vaugines. This village doesn’t attract the numbers of tourists the previous two locations do, so I was able to spend a very pleasant hour photographing a lot of beautiful buildings.


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Apt Market

One of the first things we needed to do upon our arrival in Lacoste is buy some groceries. Our landlord/host for the week, Finn, recommended the market in Apt which takes place every Saturday. With our arrival on Friday, this worked perfectly into our plans.

The next morning we made the 20 minute drive to check out the market. You can pretty much buy anything from scarves to spaghetti, socks to squash, wallets to … well you get the drift.

It was fun wandering around then stopping for an espresso at a sidewalk cafe.

Here’s a few images from our visit:

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